As promised I am putting transmit information on the facility of iron balusters. While the day, one of the most base questions I get from customers is the how to of iron baluster installation.
Many construction codes want three balusters on a tread to comply with the 4" sphere rule. Check with your local code officials if you have any doubts about your stair's compliance.
First, I let the buyer know that the very last thing in balustrade facility is the iron balusters. It plainly works well to install the newel posts, handrail, treads and risers first. Once installed layout the balusters on the floor and use a level to plumb up to the handrail town and mark the relationship at the town lowest of the handrail. Using a ½" paddle or spade bit one can drill upward 1" deep into the handrail. Using a 5/8" paddle bit drill a hole no more than ¼" deep into the floor. Once these are drilled out the lowest of the handrail can be sanded with an orbital sander and the perfect balustrade theory can be stained and finished. Once the stain and finish is completed one can begin installing the iron balusters.
One of the following two tools is recommended for cutting iron or metal balusters: a power miter box with a metal cutting blade, or a movable band saw. My preference is the movable band saw. It works cleaner, is more portable, and doesn't cause sparking as does the power miter box (or chop saw).
Turn the baluster upside down and set the round dowel top into the hole in the floor, keeping the baluster plumb to the hole under the handrail. Mark the baluster with a pencil, portion up 3/8" minimum and that would be the cut mark. Note that you are cutting off the bottom, not the top, of the baluster. This ensures proper alignment of the construct elements.
For gluing the installer has two options: Epoxy or construction adhesive. My personal preference is construction adhesive as I have more control over the goods and, if it gets messy, wipes away admittedly and can also serve as a caulk nearby the iron. Epoxy comes in the mixing tubes and doesn't all the time mix properly. If it gets messy and dried, removing the epoxy also removes the powder coating on the iron. Some carpenters prefer and have their own control over epoxy. I do not. I find construction adhesives easier to work with.
Squeeze a small amount of the adhesive into the hole under the handrail. The adhesive is thick and slow and will not drain back out, giving time to perfect the installation. Make sure the shoe for the iron baluster is slid up while installing. Push baluster's round dowel up into the ½" hole under the handrail and then drop it into the 5/8" hole in the floor in a bed of additional construction adhesive. Quadrilateral off the baluster's alignment then drop the shoe down to the floor. If the shoe comes with a set screw, use an Allen wrench to tighten it. The glue in the handrail hole will rule nearby the baluster creating a exquisite seal. Once the glue has dried the baluster will be well secured, even helping to develop the handrails load.
When installing 5/8" iron balusters the process is identical, one only needs to drill a 5/8" hole under the handrail and a ¾" hole at the floor. 5/8" iron is ideal in remodeling work, when replacing wood balusters. Most installed wood balusters have a 5/8" hole under the handrail and a ¾" hole at the floor. If replacing wood balusters with ½" iron it is regularly recommended to install shoes under the handrail to cover a small Quadrilateral peg in a larger round hole. The use of wood or cabinet screws helps to lock the baluster in, serving as both a wedge and forcing the baluster on center.
Round 5/8" iron or metal balusters can be installed without shoes plainly by drilling a 5/8" hole into the handrail and into the floor and following the same course outlined above.
I have been asked about development the holes square. It is potential with a limited more work. To cut the Quadrilateral hole in the floor or handrail, drill a round hole in the wood the same size at the baluster's extensive width. Then chisel out the hole to make it square. Another choice is a "mortising bit." I have not used one of these but have spoken with carpenters who have. Their annotation tends to be that this method is a "pain in the you know what."
